Centro of Attention (Drago Centro, Los Angeles, CA)

I've lost count of how many restaurants Celestino Drago operates, but his new Drago Centro offers no new surprises–which is a good thing since his establishments are pretty damn reliable when in the mood for great Italian.

Everything I tried was solid. We started with the langoustine carpaccio and charcuterie starters, and moved on to split the lobster fettuccine (cooked perfectly al dente) before tackling the lamb ossobucco.

Though parking in the underground parking garage was free with validation, I could not find its entrance for the life of me. Wish this place were more accessible, because even when I was in the parking garage, I had no idea where the hell the elevator to the restaurant was.

All this trouble led me to worry that maybe Drago Centro didn't exist at all–you know, like the tooth fairy, the pot of gold at the end of a rainbow or the female orgasm which, as we all know, is a pretty big myth.

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