“Startsi,” Voynyagovo Village, Karlovo Municipality, Plovdiv Province, Bulgaria. The kukeri in this region are called “startsi” (“Elders”, the local dialect word for Kukeri). In Voynyagovo, the outfits differ significantly from the others of Karlovo region. The decoration above the head (“kilyaf”) is a light wooden structure fastened by special iron straps across the chest and decorated with colorful tassels, beads, old coins, and mirrors. The mirrors are essential to keep away ghosts and evil energies. It is said that should the ghosts come near, they will see their own horrible reflection in the mirror and flee in fear.
Photographer Ashley Suszczynski traces back her passion for art to her childhood years. Particularly, to making puppets out of brown paper bags and throwing shows with her grandma. This later evolved into a love of science fiction and escaping to adventure lands populated by mythical creatures. This feeling of wonder runs through her Masked Traditions series, which sees her roaming through Europe to capture a visually striking branch of ancient folklore.
The project had its origins in a chance encounter. “Several years ago, I saw photographs of a masquerade in the north of Spain called ‘La Vijanera,'” Suszczynski tells My Modern Met. “The characters looked like those I had imagined from the pages of my childhood stories. There was everything from anthropomorphic fur-covered creatures to masked tree nymphs and spirits of the woodlands. I flew to Spain for a week to attend, and just like that, an obsession was born.”
After this, Suszczynski began researching more European masking rituals and rites, eager to learn about their history, characters, and symbolism. “The festivals typically celebrated common themes involving seasonal change, fertility, life, and death. It seemed as though every tiny village had their own unique ancient rituals that were still thriving in our modern society,” she shares.
“Each masquerade I photograph feels like being transported into a different fairy tale novel from my childhood. It is an honor that instead of simply escaping into these fantastic stories, I can now share them through my photographs.”
The project has taken her to Spain, Bulgaria, and Portugal, where she has photographed groups with intricately designed costumes and masks. From the Startsi, which boast towering headpieces decorated with colorful tassels, beads, old coins, and mirrors, to the Babugeri, whose fur-heavy traditional outfits keep them protected from the cold at high altitudes, these garments tell unique stories about each place.
For Suszczynski, the entire process is a wild ride. “I’ll begin doing research online about which places hold masquerades on which dates, which countries have masks I find most visually stunning or unique. Then I go there, and the fun really begins,” she says. “When I plan a ‘trip’ it’s usually around an event, and I’ll go to the event—the carnival, the parade, whatever it is—but that’s only the tip of the iceberg. That is the foot in the door.”
Hoping to learn as much as possible from the source, she tries her best to overcome the language barrier. “Sometimes I would just drive to a village, go to their town hall with my phone and Google Translate to the mayor. ‘Does your village have masks?'”
While the photographer describes it as challenging, she finds the adventure inexplicably rewarding. “I’ll have friends for life made from these photos. I am so thankful for each and every person I have photographed. I couldn’t do any of this without their passion and willingness to share their time, energy and culture. They’re proud people, all of them. They love to teach about their culture. They love for people to learn about their culture, to bring it to light and help it thrive,” Suszczynski concludes.
Photographer Ashley Suszczynski roams Europe to capture ancient masked traditions.
“Caretos,” Lazarim, Viseu, Portugal. The Entrudo De Lazarim is an ancestral pre-Lenten celebration that is one of Portugal’s most impressive masquerade traditions that is still practiced today. It is said that Caretos hold powers over the key elements of thriving humanity. They ensure the fertility of the fields, fruitfulness of men and animals, and the maintenance of law and order. The village of Lazarim is known for its masterful artisans who meticulously hand carve each mask from a single piece of tree trunk. The Alder wood masks are always left unpainted to appreciate the raw talent of the carver. The elder craftsmen have a beautiful saying that they ‘cannot put a mask on a piece of wood, the mask is inside of it already and you must find a way to reveal it.’
The project has taken her to Spain, Bulgaria, and Portugal, where she has photographed groups with intricately designed costumes and masks.
“Kukeri,” Village of Opanets, Pleven Municipality, Bulgaria. This magnificent kuker's outfit is made by hand and sewn from the furs of the Bulgarian long-haired goat. By putting on their masks, the kukeri make a symbolic connection with the spirits of their forefathers and help them in providing fertility to the people, livestock, and fields.
Suszczynski researches European masking rituals and rites, eager to learn about their history, their characters, and their symbolism.
“Harramacho,” Navalacruz, Avila, Spain. The Harramachos of Navalacruz are an ancient mask group that live at the foothills of the Sierra de Gredos in the province of Avila, Spain. The characters dress in the leaves and bushes of the oak tree, accessorizing with fallen acorns. Others can be seen utilizing hay sacks as garments, adorned in local skins and leathers. While the origin of the characters is unknown, the anthropomorphic qualities of their fashions seems to be related to the area’s cattle breeding traditions. It is said that the Harramachos protect the area’s children and livestock. The climax of their winter “Maskaravila“ (Masquerade) takes place when local boys leap over the Chico River, jumping from childhood to maturity. The Harramachos are the first to celebrate their new growth and success.
“The festivals typically celebrated common themes involving seasonal change, fertility, life, and death.”
“Vazovski Jumal,” Ivan Vazovo Village, Kaloyanovo Municipality, Plovdiv Province, Bulgaria. The hood and the mask in this photo are some of the oldest in the village. It is the property of Grandpa Ivan Barabojcheto, made by Grandma Ganka and Grandma Pesha in the early 90s. The large conical hood is called a “Kavuk” and is decorated with different patterned cloth and tassels. It is filled with rye straw. While modern kavutsi are decorated with mirrored plates, the antique hand mirror attached to this mask adds a unique and special touch showing the ancient roots of the tradition. The mirror is attached to mask to ward away the devil and evil spirits. When these demons take a look in the mirror, they will see themselves, how repulsive they are, and run away in terror. Their exit will leave the village safe, healthy and prosperous in the new year. “The more we seek and discover our roots, the more we find ourselves” – Spas Abrashev, Vazovski Jumal
“It seemed as though every tiny village had their own unique ancient rituals that were still thriving in our modern society.”
“Tranga,” Bielsa, Huesca, Spain. The Bielsa Carnaval, happening each year on the weekend before Lent, is one of the most important festivals in the Pyrenees. The essence of the carnival and the characters themselves have changed very little from the beginning of the last century to the present day. The event is a ceremonial farewell to winter and a welcoming of springtime. The Tranga are the most well-recognized characters of the Bielsa carnival. They are single young men from the Bielsa valley, dressed in the skin and horns of a male goat, a checkered shirt, a saya (skirt), wool socks, abarcas (traditional rawhide footwear), and large esquillas (bells) at their waist. Their faces are painted black with soil and oil and speckled with flour. They carve potatoes to look like grotesque teeth and hold the potato in their mouth as they make their way around the town chasing after the women and children. The beast is symbolic of fertility.
“Kukeri,” Borets Village, Brezovo Municipality, Plovdiv Province, Bulgaria. The kukers in Borets are known for having some of the tallest masks in the country. Their masks exceed 3 meters in height, but the group is working on creating masks that are up to 4.5 meters in height. Over 400 flowers can be used on a single mask. As we walked the streets, the kukers bobbed and weaved to duck under power cables. Their masks were taller than all the homes that lined the streets.
For Suszczynski, the entire process is a wild ride.
“Mechkari,” Yardzhilovtsi Village, Pernik Region, Bulgaria. Mechkari stand proud with towering masks; possibly the largest in Bulgaria. In the other villages of the Pernik region, people refer to their masked groups as survakari. In Yardzhilovtsi, they call themselves “Mechkari” (bear-leaders). They call the house where they make their masks the “Mechkarnitsa” (bear-cave). The month before “Surova” the group spends all of their time in the “Mechkarnitsa” to make their masks. Yardzhilovtsi prides itself on having the largest masks in the country. The masks stand over twice the height of the wearer. In Yardzhilovtsi , they name every mask. The mask shown here is titled “The Shepard.”
“I’ll begin doing research online, about which places hold masquerades on which dates, which countries have masks I find most visually stunning or unique. Then I go there, and the fun really begins,” she says.
“Survakari,” Noevtsi village, Breznik municipality, Pernik district, Bulgaria. The village of Noevtsi is situated in the Graovo area, 20 km from the town of Pernik. In the near past, its inhabitants were 1200. Today they are less than half that. The masks of Noevtsi are very interesting because no two masks are alike. Each participant makes their own mask, and no one sees it until it is revealed on the holiday of Surva. The following year, each mask is either supplemented, changed, or made entirely anew. The faces of the masks are all carved from the walnut tree and adorned with leather, horns, and whatnot. Their outfits are also made from furs, and are decorated with Noevtsi’s signature colorful pom-poms. “The more fearful they are with their masks, leather costumes, and big bells, the more evil creatures they will expel.”
“When I plan a ‘trip’ it’s usually around an event, and I’ll go to the event—the carnival, the parade, whatever it is—but that’s only the tip of the iceberg. That is the foot in the door.”
“Kukeri,” Kliment village, Karlovo Municipality, Plovdiv District, Bulgaria. This father in Kliment passes his tradition down to his three sons who will carry on the legacy.
“Sometimes I would just drive to a village, go to their town hall with my phone and Google Translate to the mayor. ‘Does your village have masks?'”
“Surati,” Mirkovo Village, Mirkovo Municipality, Sofia Province, Bulgaria. Many people inquire, “What are the red and white tassels we see on all the masked characters of Bulgaria?” Baba Marta means “Grandma March.” It is the name of a Bulgarian mythical figure who brings with her the end of the cold winter and the beginning of the spring. Her holiday of the same name is celebrated in Bulgaria on March 1 with the exchange and wearing of martenitsi. Martenitsi are red and white colored bands or tassels that symbolize health and happiness, a lucky charm against evil spirits. They are given away to friends and family and are worn around your wrist or on your outfit. The white color represents man. Red represents the woman and health: it is a sign of blood, conception and birth. In ancient times women’s wedding dresses were red. People wear martenitsa for a certain period, the end of which usually is connected with the first signs of spring birds like storks or swallows. When we were given martenitsa from some of the villagers, we were told when we see the first birds of spring, to take our bracelets off and tie them to a nearby tree. Since these Surati, along with the Kukeri, Chaushi, Survakari and other protectors are a ritual spectacle of springtime prosperity, it makes all the sense that they are decorated with the love of “Grandma March.”
While the photographer describes it as a challenge, she finds it inexplicably rewarding.
“Survakari,” Banishte village, Breznik Municipality, Pernik District, Bulgaria. Many decades ago, the costumes of the sourvashkars in Banishte were made of corn husks. They were sewn leaf by leaf, row by row, overlapping until completion. Around thirty years ago, they began to sew the costumes from grass. The style always stayed the same, unique to Banishte. They are very fond of keeping tradition and always strive for it. No other group in the country rivals this style.
Ultimately, these garments tell unique stories about each place.
“The Passing of the Wheat,” “Babugeri,” Bansko Municipality, Blagoevgrad Province, Bulgaria. “In the past people used to live a very miserable and poor life. It was a harsh way of existing so they were trying to find hope in our traditions. There were prayers for rain, prayers against illnesses, against scorching heat and floods. People believed that “passing of the wheat” will bring them health and ‘bereket’ (fertility and abundance). The tradition of the ears of wheat passing from father to son aimed to assure better life for the younger generation – to live a wealthier, more comfortable and satisfactory life. With the passing of the wheat from the older to the younger, the tradition is passed on as well. This way my son will become the protector of the family, the children, our home. The responsibility of taking care of everything important in his life. I have to say this again, but it is our adversities and our hard life, that made us believe in the powers of this ritual… that our children would live a better life.” What an honor it was to join Radoslav Todev, the leader of the Babugeri of Bansko, and his son Spasimir Todev for this breathtaking tradition. We took a series of gondola lifts high into the Pirin Mountains to do a photoshoot of epic proportions with the Babugeri. The further we went up, the more the temperature dropped. Then came the rain…the snow..when we reached the top it was a complete whiteout. While we could not see the scenic landscape that we had intended, what we got was an even more majestic and magical setting for this ceremony. How powerful and moving this moment was, isolated in the foggy sky.
“They’re proud people, all of them. They love to teach about their culture. They love for people to learn about their culture, to bring it to light and help it thrive.”
“Survakari,” Dolna Sekirna Village, Breznik Municipality, Bulgaria. The survakars from Dolna Sekirna are known for their towering masks, which are made from bird feathers. While their village is tiny, with less than 100 inhabitants, they are one of the most well-known groups at Surva for their big energy and beautiful designs. Though their masks can be twice the size of their bodies, the masks are in no way secured to the wearer. They are balanced on the shoulders, with two wooden rods that come down to chest level to hold on to. The bells worn at the waist can weigh upwards of 20 kilos (44 lb) each.
