The Boucheron Wave Tiara: Inspired by Hokusai's Masterpiece

Opulent Tiara From Early 20th Century Inspired by Hokusai’s ‘Great Wave off Kanagawa’

By Regina Sienra on July 29, 2024

The Great Wave off Kanagawa (Image: Katsushika Hokusai via Wikimedia Commons, Public domain)

Jewelry and art go hand in hand. Some pieces are so intricate and valuable that they’re considered masterpieces—just take a look at the French Crown Jewels housed in the Louvre's Galerie d’Apollon. But in the early 20th century, French jewelry house Boucheron brought art and jewelry even closer, drawing from one of the most famous images in art history to design a tiara like no other.

The Boucheron Wave Tiara was crafted by master goldsmith Coulot in 1910. The design, believed to be built on a delicate platinum frame was inspired by Hokusai's famous woodblock print The Great Wave Off Kanagawa. Within the limits of the medium, Coulot replicated the breaking waves with successive crescents adorned with diamonds.

The top of each wave on the tiara is rendered with larger diamonds, while smaller stones serve as structure for each of the waves. Instead of going for a symmetrical design, as most tiaras do, the goldsmith goes for a dynamic look to evoke the power of the ocean. This was also achieved by the meticulous setting technique, which likely employed techniques like millegrain and tremblant.

The Boucheron Wave Tiara has been said to represent two moments in art history. The first is the interest in Japanese art that emerged in Europe after the opening of the Meiji era at the end of the 19th century, which can also be noticed in Post-Impressionism artists such as Van Gogh. The second is the influence of art nouveau—particularly its veneration of organic shapes and motifs inspired by nature—beyond canvases and into more tangible items, such as fashion and jewelry.

Little is known about the Boucheron Wave Tiara beyond its creation. Not only is there no record of the original owner, but no one knows who commissioned it from the Boucheron house either. Where it has been ever since it was finished also remains unknown. All we currently have is a black and white photograph of the object.

There is also a replica that, while it lacks many of the details of the original, allows us to get a glimpse at how the original would have looked. Should it ever appear, it would be a thrilling moment for both the jewelry and art worlds.