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Tacos may be the most popular thing about Mexico, known around the world. Not only are they tasty, but they are also easy to make and they are available in a myriad of fillings and varieties. As such, they are commonly found in street stands and food trucks than at upscale restaurants. Still, those who thoroughly understand what it takes to make a good taco know it can come from anywhere. The Michelin Guide, which celebrates excellence in cuisine, recently awarded El Califa de León, a tiny taqueria in Mexico City, a Michelin star, making it the first taco stand to ever get this recognition.
El Califa de León was founded in 1968. And unlike many of its fellow restaurants in the Michelin Guide, it's not a high-end establishment where reservations are needed. Instead, it's a hole-in-the-wall spot, tucked between a low-cost drugstore chain and some clothing vendors. The 1o by 10 feet space has cooks and customers sharing the same room, with only a metal bar for people to eat at while standing, clutching their plastic plates. According to the Associated Press, this makes it the second smallest restaurant ever to get a Michelin star, following a street food stand in Bangkok.
One of the keys to Califa de León's success is its limited menu. While other places offer many kinds of tacos, this offers only four— bistec (steak), chuleta (cutlet), costilla (rib), and gaonera (tenderloin). While the price tag for each taco is about $3 to $5, making them significantly pricier than others in the area, locals and tourists are drawn to their taste, lining up in queues outside in the San Rafael neighborhood.
“The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that’s it. That, and the quality of the meat,” chef Arturo Rivera Martínez, told AP. The tortillas are also made by hand at the restaurant, where the steel grill is heated up to 680°F.
“It’s often said that you should do one thing and do it well, but in this taqueria’s case, they do four things well. Our Inspectors appreciated the simplicity of El Califa’s approach,” reads the Michelin Guide. “‘It’s about the meat and tortilla without any fuss or garnish to dress it up or hide behind.' High quality products and consistency are key to this taqueria’s success. ‘Their technical ability shines, and since they only have four options on the menu, it allows them to maintain their standards throughout.' Whether they visited in the morning or at night during the busy dinner hours, the quality remained the same on every visit.”
If you're ever in Mexico City, you can find El Califa de León in Ribera de San Cosme 56, not far from the San Cosme subway station. Like any respectable taqueria, it opens at 11 a.m. and closes well into the wee hours, at 2 a.m, making them the perfect snack for any time of day.
El Califa de León, a tiny taqueria in Mexico City, became the first taco stand to get a Michelin star.
“The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that’s it. That, and the quality of the meat,” says chef Arturo Rivera Martínez.
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The 1o x 10 feet space has cooks and customers sharing the same room, with only a metal bar for people to eat at while standing, clutching their plastic plates.
Ver esta publicación en Instagram
While other places offer many kinds of tacos, this offers only four— bistec (steak), chuleta (cutlet), costilla (rib), and gaonera (tenderloin).
Taqueria El Califa de Leon, a small taco stand in Mexico City, recently earned one star in the Michelin Guide https://t.co/aRw8eIZkDa Gustavo Graf pic.twitter.com/1pCjrzlzW7
— Reuters Pictures (@reuterspictures) May 17, 2024
“It’s often said that you should do one thing and do it well, but in this taqueria’s case, they do four things well. Our Inspectors appreciated the simplicity of El Califa’s approach,” reads the Michelin Guide.
El Califa de Leon: Inside The First Michelin Starred Taco Stand In Mexico@GettyImagesNews pic.twitter.com/NIgnfD10p6
— Hector Vivas (@hvivas24) May 17, 2024
El Califa de León: Instagram
h/t: [Good]
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