Mexico City Taqueria Becomes First Taco Stand in the World to Earn a Michelin Star

Tacos may be the most popular thing about Mexico, known around the world. Not only are they tasty, but they are also easy to make and they are available in a myriad of fillings and varieties. As such, they are commonly found in street stands and food trucks than at upscale restaurants. Still, those who thoroughly understand what it takes to make a good taco know it can come from anywhere. The Michelin Guide, which celebrates excellence in cuisine, recently awarded El Califa de León, a tiny taqueria in Mexico City, a Michelin star, making it the first taco stand to ever get this recognition.

El Califa de León was founded in 1968. And unlike many of its fellow restaurants in the Michelin Guide, it's not a high-end establishment where reservations are needed. Instead, it's a hole-in-the-wall spot, tucked between a low-cost drugstore chain and some clothing vendors. The 1o by 10 feet space has cooks and customers sharing the same room, with only a metal bar for people to eat at while standing, clutching their plastic plates. According to the Associated Press, this makes it the second smallest restaurant ever to get a Michelin star, following a street food stand in Bangkok.

One of the keys to Califa de León's success is its limited menu. While other places offer many kinds of tacos, this offers only four— bistec (steak), chuleta (cutlet), costilla (rib), and gaonera (tenderloin). While the price tag for each taco is about $3 to $5, making them significantly pricier than others in the area, locals and tourists are drawn to their taste, lining up in queues outside in the San Rafael neighborhood.

“The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that’s it. That, and the quality of the meat,” chef Arturo Rivera Martínez, told AP. The tortillas are also made by hand at the restaurant, where the steel grill is heated up to 680°F.

“It’s often said that you should do one thing and do it well, but in this taqueria’s case, they do four things well. Our Inspectors appreciated the simplicity of El Califa’s approach,” reads the Michelin Guide. “‘It’s about the meat and tortilla without any fuss or garnish to dress it up or hide behind.' High quality products and consistency are key to this taqueria’s success. ‘Their technical ability shines, and since they only have four options on the menu, it allows them to maintain their standards throughout.' Whether they visited in the morning or at night during the busy dinner hours, the quality remained the same on every visit.”

If you're ever in Mexico City, you can find El Califa de León in Ribera de San Cosme 56, not far from the San Cosme subway station. Like any respectable taqueria, it opens at 11 a.m. and closes well into the wee hours, at 2 a.m, making them the perfect snack for any time of day.

El Califa de León, a tiny taqueria in Mexico City, became the first taco stand to get a Michelin star.

El Califa de León taco stand

Photo: kaart_2 @ Mapillary via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

“The secret is the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce, and that’s it. That, and the quality of the meat,” says chef Arturo Rivera Martínez.

The 1o x 10 feet space has cooks and customers sharing the same room, with only a metal bar for people to eat at while standing, clutching their plastic plates.

While other places offer many kinds of tacos, this offers only four— bistec (steak), chuleta (cutlet), costilla (rib), and gaonera (tenderloin).

“It’s often said that you should do one thing and do it well, but in this taqueria’s case, they do four things well. Our Inspectors appreciated the simplicity of El Califa’s approach,” reads the Michelin Guide.

El Califa de León: Instagram
h/t: [Good]

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Regina Sienra

Regina Sienra is a Staff Writer at My Modern Met. Based in Mexico City, Mexico, she holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with specialization in Journalism from the National Autonomous University of Mexico. She has 10+ years’ experience in Digital Media, writing for outlets in both English and Spanish. Her love for the creative arts—especially music and film—drives her forward every day.
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